Toby Hart discovered why Twisted Olive is the talk of the town.

Where West Bay’s pulsing metropolis overlooks the tranquil Arabian Gulf, you’ll find a sophisticated semi-circle of serenity. Twisted Olive, a bistro-style eatery nestled around the ground floor front perimeter of Doha Tower, revealed its chic style to me over a lunch-time encounter.

The unexpectedly verdant surroundings provided solace amid the October heat, as natural green shade covered the terraced exterior. Arriving around noon, my guest and I were greeted by warm smiles and immediately escorted to an indoor table. Fellow diners were professionals on business lunches. From Qataris to Brits, the clientele all carried a similar sensibility; understated elegance.

Parquet floors, walls of white and olive-green, offset by terrazzo tables and comfortable seating, set the tone. The earthy elegance translated to service staff, uniformly attired in crisp khaki and white ensembles.

We were guided by Head Chef Matthew Jansen van Vuuren. The mastermind behind Twisted Olive’s dishes, Matthew is a man on a mission in Qatar. Committed to creative exploration in cuisine, but never at the expense of value, he has earned his stripes in the industry and has made a point of putting together a team who share this work ethic.

From kitchen staff to front of house, the energy was consistent and the approach authentic, offering home-cooked homages, while embracing superior ingredients and premium presentation. This proved to be a case of trial and pleasure as we undertook a dish-sampling odyssey that included breakfast specialities, main course substance and dessert splendour.

Never pushy but always present when needed, our main server Francis conveyed a genuine desire to showcase the cuisine at each stage. He was ably supported by Jema, with a calm demeanour, and the ever-polite Norlyn.

Our breakfast ‘guest’ Benedict, or Bennie as Twisted Olive nicknamed him, would be our poached egg companion, gracing three dishes. His first iteration was as Avo-licious Bennie, a fresh persona made wholesome by generous slices of perfectly ripened avocado, dressed with an irresistible relish, and reclining on a chaise longue of toasted brioche. We both agreed that the dish merited a return-visit.

The Porto-Bennie was the fun guy option, blending absolutely scrumptious parmesan spinach with oven roasted portobello mushrooms. I found myself coming back to this dish repeatedly to enjoy the fresh creaminess. It was a wonderful veggie option that satisfied without compromise. The Hashbrown-Bennie with caramelised onion, a new addition to the menu, was also very tasty and generously seasoned.

I favour savoury over sweet for breakfast, but the Banoffee French Toast demanded a try. Caramelised banana sunbathing on honey-soaked bread, with Häagen-Dazs ice cream on the side, it was a righteously decadent salute to the sunrise.

Amid a mouth-watering maelstrom, the Buttermilk Fried Chicken on French toast came out tops. The crumbed fillet pieces fulfilled the melt-in-my-mouth cliché. This tender fried chicken is southern comfort, Middle-Eastern style.

After a hugely satisfying start, our main-course mania began with the Rigatoni Bolognaise, with truffle sauce adding a decadent twist that didn’t deviate from tradition. The Travelling Chickpea vegan option was an aesthetic delight with its vivid beetroot hummus accoutrement. It was absolutely sumptuous from the very first bite A plate of Wagyu Sliders served with crispy fries delivered an unpretentious gourmet burger experience, where smoked provolone and veal bacon played upon a brioche base.

First among equals were the refreshing, tender cubes of Saku Tuna, accompanied by zesty mango salsa and a mayonnaise that added real zip. Resistance was futile.

If you’re intending to get your guns out this beach season, then The Forty-Four is your kind of dish. This Schwarzenegger of salads boasted an army of healthy protein-packed ingredients that had me wanting to run the streets of Philadelphia to the Rocky theme after a few forkfuls of grilled chicken breast, baby spinach, broccoli, quinoa and ubiquitous boiled eggs. Don’t, however, be fooled into thinking this is an ensemble of all brawn and absolutely no taste.

On the contrary, the salad dressing was intoxicatingly fragrant, and it was a delicious muscle-car of a meal.

With mains done and dusted, we prepared to finish in style with some diet-wrecking desserts.

I couldn’t fault a decadent hybrid of a baked blackberry cheesecake and traditional brownie, as the delicious, whipped mascarpone and blackberry compote tangoed mercilessly with my taste buds. My guest tried the espresso version of the Crème Brulee with its pistachio biscotti. He found it to have a wonderful balance, with the right amount of sweetness.

Sampling the Bread and Butter Pudding took me back to my childhood. Chef Matthew revealed the secret behind the yumfactor; buttery croissants as the bread base. Twisted Olive made it just like my grandmother used to. I found the sense of home comfort in each spoonful endearing.

The latest addition to the dessert menu, the Cup of Happiness, integrated ethically sourced ingredients with cool, calming chia. The Strawberry Tiramisu though took the cake for me, as I finished every delectable morsel of it.

We ended our odyssey with fresh ginger tea and a farewell, but for me, certainly not a goodbye. I shall return.

For the uninitiated, I suggest parking in the tower basement, saving time and perspiration. I’m also told that Fridays are jampacked with the trendy set, so it’s best to book in advance to avoid disappointment ✤

GO: CALL 4425 2727 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.