FACT’s Muhammad Asad Ullah heads to Marsa Malaz Kempinski, The Pearl – Doha to satisfy his craving for Middle Eastern cuisine at Al Sufra’s Tuesday Kebab Night

Hearty, fresh, vibrant: These are modern dietary values we celebrate, and they’re humbly yet intensely found in Middle Eastern offerings. A new wave of restaurants is revamping the gastronomical image by bringing different tastes of the Middle East together, creating a fusion, yet staying true to the authenticity of the taste and aroma.

Al Sufra at Marsa Malaz Kempinski is one such place in Qatar, bringing the richness of Jordanian, Palestinian, Syrian, Lebanese and Cypriot flavours together, along with the delightful dips that go with them. The menu is mostly unchanging, a dependable and hearty serving of evergreen options with fresh pita to nibble at. People queue to be seated to order flavourful lamb meatballs, lamb chops, quick-fried kibbeh with yoghurt, or well-done marinated chicken, brimming with fresh herbs and pickled garnishes.

The calm — not so boisterous — vibe contributes to this venue remaining in perpetually high demand.

Al Sufra is offering kebab nights on Tuesdays, a set menu featuring hot and cold mezze, a wholesome platter of chargrilled kebabs and assorted Arabic sweets, which couldn’t be better for someone like myself, who’s an absolute fanatic for grilled food and flavoursome marinated meat.

It’s a dull Tuesday night, in terms of traffic on the road, but as I reach the restaurant, the narrative changes: amidst the dim lighting I can feel the restaurant beat brimming with customers, even on a weekday night. There are families waiting to be seated. It’s a busy night in here.

The interior is set in arctic white and teal paired with beige, there’s a fountain in the centre of the court and music is so subdued that it doesn’t really clash with the sound of the water flowing. I’m all in and it seems like it’s going to be a fun night.

A combination of cold mezze and salad arrives. Fattoush, hummus, moutabel, and lentil kibbeh accompanied by mixed pickles and olives. The starters are truly great. At any Middle Eastern restaurant fattoush is my staple and, over the years, I’ve tried it at so many different places, but this one here at Al Sufra really catches me with surprise and for all the right reasons. Although fattoush is a simple chopped salad, dressed in a zesty lime vinaigrette, it’s the right amounts of pomegranate and olive oil that make the dish. The hummus is so creamy with such a smooth consistency that one can tell how finely the chickpeas have been ground. I like the nutty, citric aroma of this dish.

Similarly, the moutabel is bursting with an intense smoky aroma of pulpy eggplant flesh. With a texture somewhere between a hummus and Baba Ganoush, trust me, a little bowl of moutabel with a stack of pita bread is nothing but utterly lip smacking. If you’re a little doubtful about this eggplant dip on its own, try it with the lentil kibbeh that are lighter than air and healthier than anything else, especially for vegetarians, and you’ll feel that life has taken a delicious turn.

As I’m done with the mezzes, hot appetisers are served. These are exceptional. Kibbeh Round is fragrant and fresh, Cheese Sambousek is packed with melted cheese, Potato Harra is richly spicy and I team it with pitta bread (you can credit my love for bread to my cultural background. Nothing really quite goes down the oesophagus without a nibble of bread) and the Grilled Halloumi manages that rarest of things under the grill: it is moist, cooked perfectly, without losing its rich, and distinct flavours. Garnished with basil, garlic and olive oil, the halloumi is some of the best I’ve ever tasted.

I could eat the amazing appetisers all day, but, in the interests of research, it’s onto the main course, the platter of chargrilled kebabs. The serving has four different kinds of kebabs: lamb minced with pistachios; lamb with moderate Oriental spices; chicken kebab; and kebab halabi – the Syrian version made with ground beef. They are served with red-onion salad, a squeeze of lemon, chargrilled whole onion and tomatoes, blackened green chillies and warm lavash bread. All the kebabs are tender and juicy. I can taste the distinct condiments used in the marination of the meat as it melts in my mouth, so gently that I barely have to make an effort to chew. The highlight of the kebabs: I can taste the generous helping of smoked paprika and ginger.

I need to move on to the dessert and not stuff myself more with these kebabs. It is harder than it looks.

Now for the sugary delights. The two different kinds of Baklava are a ‘must try’ to end your meal, one with pistachios and the other with almonds and walnuts. Numbers of delicate layers melt into one single bite in the syrupy Baklava loaded with nuts. The crunchiness, that is the result of 40-odd sheets of paper-thin dough, is just divine and highly recommended. ✤

GO: CALL 4035 5011 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.