Craig Ferriman finds a great atmosphere, exquisite food and so much more at Riyasat, the latest addition to Qatar’s fine-dining scene.

Riyasat refers to a province, territory or estates of the Maharajas or Kings dating back to the 19th century in India. And it’s with that theme in mind that one of the most impressive new restaurants on Qatar’s culinary scene has now opened.

It’s been a long time in the planning and the launch was heavily delayed due to the pandemic. But it’s finally here and well worth the wait. Situated in the new complex of fine-dining outlets that was previously the Al Gassar ballroom, there is something very modern and trendy about turning up here. There is no need to walk through a hotel lobby but instead there’s a large atrium from which you access a variety of restaurants.

Riyasat is straight ahead and the place is vast. I was immediately taken by the array of artworks that all evoke memories of the royal era but also tell stunning stories of the people associated with the food. The starters were distinctive. I particularly enjoyed their version of a pani puri, fit for the royal palace. We were given a round plate of flaky pastry pyramids stuffed with royal cumin, green chilli for the kick, ginger tempered potatoes, roasted cashew nuts and ginger chutney.

I discovered the best way to eat this was all in one bite, straight in the mouth and let the flavours explode in there! This would actually be a plate I could reorder multiple times as a snack during drinks with friends but it was also a great appetiser to our evening. The tiger prawns we also tried did not disappoint and were sizzling in heat and flavour thanks to the roasted garlic, Kashmiri chillies and cream cheese they were cooked in. The Mardana Murgh was a butter chicken with a difference, as it was described to us. The tandoor roasted chicken came in a sundried-fenugreek specked, smoked tomato-saffron-cream sauce. I’d definitely recommend that.

There are many vegetarian options in this restaurant that aren’t just there to tick a box but which offer genuine choice and stand tall on their own. The charcoal smoked eggplant mash with green peas and garlic green chillies was outstanding and only a top chef could manifest it. Riyasati Gosht Dum is a biryani to beat all others and Head Chef Grenal Godinho told me that some diners are shocked to see it because it redefines what a biryani is to them. It’s an aromatic lamb shank in a saffron basmati rice and Persian-influenced garlic-yoghurt, cooked in the dum style in a steamed seal so that all the flavours are intact when the lid is lifted.

The desserts were picture perfect for the Gram. Jamun e Khaas was my personal favourite. It’s a bowl of milk-cake dumplings, vanilla bean ice cream and, upon presentation, the waiter poured hot cardamom-nutmeg Callebaut chocolate sauce all over it, cracking the structure into a perfect gooey debris. I also tried a delicious baked yoghurt that gave it a cheesecake-like look but resulted in a very light finish for the palate. We were treated to some warm and soothing, sweet Indian tea served in glasses, before leaving. Staff are a league above those in most places quite simply because of their passion and commitment to Chef Grenal and his work. The head chef is in regular Zoom meetings with Chef Jolly in London, who established the restaurants and curated the menu. The Doha team perfect the recipes and the delivery of them.

The waiters know the story behind them, the ingredients in them and what dishes suit which people’s tastes. Based on that, they even know which drink to pair it with and liaise with the inhouse mixologist to make the magic happen. Riyasat is one of the most impressive new additions to the food scene. The combination of the warmly-lit setting, gorgeously designed dining room and the exquisite food make for a magnificent experience. And if you are looking to stay in the comfort of your home, Riyasat delivers straight to your doorstep. ✤

GO: FOR BOOKINGS AND MORE INFORMATION CALL 4424 4856 OR WHATSAPP: 5053 4103 EMAIL RESERVATIONS@RIYASATDOHA.COM