Archival fabrics and prints were the inspiration for this latest collection from Italian house, Etro.

Etro’s AW 23 women’s collection, Radical, under the direction of Marco De Vincenzo, is borrowed from the Late Latin radicalis, meaning root. And the roots of Etro are in fabric and print: tartans, cravat-inspired motifs and, of course, paisley. All of it comes back this season framed by a new sense of precision, a proclivity for sharp cuts and the rhythm of patterns.

Things come together instinctively, as long billowy dresses are paired with droopy, chunky knits, and androgynous trousers and vests are mingled with silk blouses. Tailoring is tall and precise, in opulent fabrications. Necktie motifs swarm on enveloping coats with contrast prints on the inside. Denim pants peek a boo, hinting, indeed, at a radical look.

Etro being a whole world, elements of home furnishing are borrowed, with blankets wrapped on light dresses. Fringes dance along the hem of chunky polos and scarves, while applique gives argyle knit a three-dimensional charm.

Accessories are just as radical: the Aladdin clogs become boots, while polished Mary Janes have thick heels and a platform. Oversized laser-cut totes provide a domestic feel and the new Saturno bucket is appropriately and positively moody.

For men, the creative path originates in the sense of reassurance offered by a jacquard velvet blanket, cherished by Marco as a child, the pattern of which is reproduced onto broad woollen coats and jackets. Tactility is key, with jacquard and weaving overtaking print.

Pieces are put together and assembled to stimulate both sight and touch, with 3D crochet fruit growing on jumpers, Melton patches defining jacket collars, psychedelic swirls liquefying on fuzzy pullovers. Domestic camouflage is the thing: upholstery fabrics are cut into blousons; long shirts and overalls recall curtains; dress shirts resemble tablecloths. Teddy shorts and tops provide further homely cosiness.

Hidden from sight, patterned linings are a private pleasure that further augments the play of motifs and textures, with tartan – an early Etro success – in a leading role. Tailored pieces are slim and elongated. At night, little flowers bloom over smoking lapels and cummerbunds. ✤

GO: VISIT WWW.ETRO.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.