A SUPERBLY SPANISH EXPERIENCE

FACT’s Kirsty Walker visited BiBo Doha for a fine Andalusian feast.

Andalusia, Spain. It has a long cultural history. Colonised by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Moors… the list goes on. Majestic coastline, pristine peaks and dramatic volcanic landscapes. It’s a region steeped in food culture, with flavours as colourful as its history. Recipes for deep-fried croquettes, marinated seafood, and creamy rice pudding are treasured from one generation to the next. Locals treat their lunch as they treat their elders. And boy, do they respect their grandmothers.

It’s from this vibrant background, and his love of travelling, that Andalusian Chef Dani Garcia and his team, founded the concept of BiBo Doha – his first gastronomical endeavour outside of Spain. The restaurant is tucked inside Al Gassar Resort, West Bay, adjacent to The St. Regis Hotel, Doha.

Upon arrival, I felt as though I had entered a stylish, art-decoinfused Spanish haven. Its high ceiling is industrial, yet the space is curated for an intimate experience through low lighting and creative use of foliage. The interior is distinctly Mediterranean. Giant lampshades and traditional wall tiles complement the large, central hexagonal bar, reminiscent of the Spanish ‘mercados’ (markets). Comfortable dining chairs upholstered with beautiful floral designs are set around large wooden tables. Both, I later realised, are necessary to fit the copious amounts of food you’ll feel compelled to order!

Speaking of food, where should I begin? With a troupe of double and triple Michelin-starred restaurants to his name, we can safely say Chef Dani Garcia takes his food seriously. It is phenomenal.

Once seated and watered, BiBo Doha’s Head Chef, Santiago, came to our table to explain the concept behind BiBo – Andalusian fine dining with an eclectic, relaxed and international approach. He listed the culinary delights of the evening ahead.

Charming, professional and experienced. He had us at “octopus”. The first three dishes landed in front of us – Ceviche de Lubina, Caprese Andaluz and Verduritas en Adobo. If I’ve lost you, allow me to explain.

Tender seabass marinated in lime juice with tart, crunchy green apple, sweetcorn and a dash of heat from some sneaky jalapeño peppers. Just when you think the ceviche can’t get any better, centred in the dish is a creamy yellow bell pepper reduction. Heaven.

The Andalusian take on the Italian Caprese classic is a creamy burrata, slow-cooked cherry tomatoes laced with basil oil and the surprising addition of a deliciously sharp tapenade.

The third dish – finally, some cruciferous vegetables at which we could rejoice. I dearly love broccoli, but often feel it’s a fan club for one. Our Verduritas en Adobo, however, packed an undeniable punch. Spicy, garlicky, with a crunch of crispy almond. A taste explosion – no longer shall I fly solo!

I would be remiss not to mention the fried-to-perfection beef and chicken Andalusian croquettes, the succulent oxtail brioche, the insanely good grilled avocado with feta or indeed, the exquisite tiger prawns wrapped in crisp basil, but I really, really, want to fast-forward to the part with the octopus…

If you’re not a fan of octopus, you and I shall never be friends.

Well, perhaps I’m exaggerating, but it’s not far off. Our firm favourite for the evening was delivered on a typical Andalusian crystal plate. Unassuming, the plate is filled with circular slices of the cephalopod, each sitting on its own little wheel of potato and sprinkled with smoked paprika. Simple, yet sautéed to perfection. The potato adds a subtle sweetness and each mouthful comes wrapped with the fine earthiness of pimenton.

I could live on it.

We were well into our food journey, but it was far from over. Empty plates were swiftly removed by our fantastic waiter, Alberto, and we were soon presented with our main course.

The whole, roasted chicken was simply presented. Carved expertly by the restaurant manager, it was served up alongside a creamy mash. Someone once told me potato takes its own weight in butter. I am now no longer a sceptic, but a firm believer in equal parts. Under the crisp, darkly roasted skin of the bird hid a layer of truffle and mushroom and, as we tucked in, it received a shout of approval from fellow diners, who were leaving the restaurant grinning, clearly full of roast!

Room for more? Let’s have some dessert! A delicious, velvet hazelnut soufflé, served with freshly churned vanilla ice cream hit the table, along with a cheeky extra scoop on request. To finish our feast, we each gulped down bowls of traditional rice pudding – a recipe from Chef Dani’s very own grandmother, a twist of tangy citrus espuma perched atop, perfectly complementing the cream.

Every detail at BiBo Doha has been orchestrated for the ultimate Andalusian-based experience. But more than anything, the food is just fabulous. I’ll be back in a heartbeat. ✤

GO: CALL 4424 4870 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.