Liz O’Reilly discovered a veritable gem on a visit to Al Messila, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Doha, in the shape of the property’s outstanding Indian restaurant, Taj Rasoi.

Since I was lucky enough to be staying at Al Messila, I approached Taj Rasoi through the stunning grounds, but heading to the restaurant through the lobby is equally as impressive and I was quickly seated and enjoying the amazing aromas wafting my way from the tables around me.

Almost immediately, my lovely server brought crunchy rolled papadums that shattered satisfyingly as I broke them apart to dip in the selection of sauces. They were accompanied by the house speciality drink, a Jarjeer Mojito, which, I have to admit, I found a bit salty but nonetheless refreshing with its mint, lime and spices.

Plates to Whet the Appetite

My first dish of the evening was Champaran Murgh Tikka – chicken thigh marinated with yoghurt, basil and coriander and cooked in the tandoor oven. Delicately flavoured, the meat was meltingly succulent and tender, the mix of herbs giving a gentle coating that burst on the tongue.

In the interests of research, I added a half portion of Adraki Gosht Ke Chaap and was very glad I did. The Australian lamb chops came marinated in yoghurt and black pepper for a touch of bite. With the majority of the fat trimmed, that which remained bore a delicious char adding to the meat’s delicate, sweet flavour. All too often in Indian cuisine I find the spices can overpower the lightness of lamb (hence the popularity of mutton) but here, the combination was perfection allowing the meat to really shine.

I can never resist potatoes in their many and various forms and feeling a little greedy, I tried half portions of two potato dishes (huge thanks to the team for indulging me) – very different and each exciting in its own right.

Aloo Papdi Chaat – a North Indian street food favourite – brought crunch in the form of fried spicy wafers layered with soft boiled potatoes, a fabulous textural contrast, topped with sweet, creamy whipped yoghurt redolent with delicate spices and the light hint of tamarind. When I first tried this dish many years ago, I was slightly wary of sweetness topping my beloved potatoes but done well, as it was at Taj Rasoi, the combination of flavours stages a party for the taste buds and I couldn’t have been happier.

Bharwan Tandoori Potato was a different option altogether. Spicy mashed potato stuffed into a crispy potato shell with nuts and spices and cooked in the tandoor. Think of the best loaded skins you’ve ever tasted and you might be half way there. The shell had been baked until deliciously crunchy while the filling, slightly salty with the heat of the spices and the earthiness of the nuts formed a deeply satisfying mouthful to which I kept returning throughout the meal.

I’m a firm believer that one shouldn’t visit an Indian restaurant without sampling the Aloo Ghobi Mutter Ki Sabji – I’m almost as devoted to cauliflower as I am to potatoes! Once again, Taj Rasoi did not disappoint. Generous chunks of cauli were accompanied by potato and green peas, tossed with onions, tomato and Indian spices. Between garlic and ginger, coriander and cumin and more, much more, I was in sensory heaven. My taste buds were fully engaged trying (and I’m sure failing) to identify all the elements that go into making this dish such a winner.

Taj Rasoi – A Delightful Venue

By now, it was well and truly time to take a breather to explore my surroundings and enjoy a cup of digestive tea.

Taj Rasoi is really rather gorgeous in its décor. Gleaming wooden floors give a touch of tradition alongside wood panelled walls. Vaulted ceilings in white and the palest blue pick up the deep blue of plush velvet seating and impressive, many-armed chandeliers which cast an intimate light in the evenings.

During the day arched windows and doors flood the space with glorious natural light. And don’t miss the peacock paintings at the entry, a tribute to the eye-catching bird you might just spot roaming the grounds.

Visiting on the cusp of Qatar’s balmy spring and full-on summer inferno, I chose to sit outside where I could take in the sights, sounds and scents of the surrounding gardens and pool – if it’s not too hot, this is the perfect space to fully appreciate this outstanding venue.

The Main Event

Soon, I headed back to my table for the arrival of Gosht Awadhi Korma – lamb simmered with golden brown cashew, onion gravy and Awadhi spices. In truth, by this stage, I thought I only had space for a few mouthfuls but, when presented with a royal dish from the Nawabi kitchens of Lucknow, my willpower swiftly went out the window and I found myself tucking in with relish.

The slow-cooked meat, meltingly tender, spoke of saffron, mace and nutmeg all wrapped in a luscious, silken gravy rich with the sweetness of caramelised onions. Deep, rich and not overly spicy, this was a splendid ending to the savoury side of the evening and a dish I would return for in a heartbeat.

With all pretence at restraint fully abandoned, I embraced Kesari Phirni, the dessert of the Rampuri Nawabs, who knew a thing or two! Supremely pretty and creamy with hints of rose, pistachio and flower petals, this was understated elegance and indulgence rolled into one. A fitting end to a repast fit for royalty.

With my visit to Taj Rasoi at an end, I really could not have asked for more. From the warmth of the welcome, to the team’s willingness to explain each dish with pride and, of course, the gorgeous surroundings, it was everything I had hoped for and more.

GO: Call 4445 0000 for more information or to make a booking.