Playing in parts

The new Lacoste Autumn Winter 2021-22 collection is casual, sporty that blurs the movement between home, work and play

The unapologetic modernity of the Front de Seine in Paris’ 15th district provides a striking backdrop for the Lacoste Autumn Winter 2021-22 collection designed by Louise Trotter. Photographed by Sam Rock against its sweeping architectural landmarks – a clash of grids and curves, concrete, bricks, tiles and glass – the season’s playful exchange of graphic sport codes and remixed classics appears in sharp relief. The impetus of an active lifestyle and the blur of movement between home, work, and play forms the basis of an interchangeable system of novel designs, as garments respond to the times with elegance, humour, and ease.

With a swatch card of bright shades grounded in muted neutrals, the collection tricks the eye with blown-up and shrunken proportions, unexpected fabrications, and the emergence of comic Lacoste characters. Like a cartoon, the signature house crocodile is reborn larger than life, as archive claw patches and bold croc heads create a new iconography alongside flaming tennis balls, a ‘tennis net’ shadow check, and an L-shaped varsity logo.

Quintessentially sportif, the concept of the tracksuit and twinset are subverted in multiple ways for men and women, as trompe l’oeil shirting, cardigans and jogging pants are all cut in cotton piqué – the keystone material of the Lacoste polo shirt – to create subtly matching sports-ensembles. Tailoring reflects the sartorial heritage of the house founder René Lacoste, as the smooth enveloping lines of peacoats, varsity jackets, overcoats and trenches are tweaked for today with knit collars, bonding for bounce, and light nylon quilting.

Evolving the upcycled design process of recent seasons, shell suits, puffer coats and quilted liners are reconstructed from a patchwork of vintage and deadstock Lacoste fabrics, creating new geometries in classic sport shapes. ‘Framis’ bonding, drawstrings and oversized rope toggles further the athletic and engineered feel of garments, as do neoprene crop tops and sculpted shorts for women. Crisp unisex chinos feature elastic Velcro cuffs, polychrome leggings in neoprene and patched knit zip high above the ankle, and speed stripes echo the racing aesthetic of checkerboard jacquard polos and trims. Worn with embossed moulded slides, 5-panel cotton piqué caps and oversized rucksacks, they complete the season’s exercise in dynamic sport style.