Italian With A New York Twist

SD got a taste of authentic Italian hospitality on an evening at New York eatery, Scarpetta.

Scarpetta is Waldorf Astoria Doha Lusail’s gift to Italian fine-dining in the city. We arrive at the spectacular location and as soon as we enter, we notice the striking interiors – grand and glamorous, blending mid-century Italian elegance and contemporary charm. At first look, it’s almost regal and we are already impressed with everything we see.

With its blend of dark woods and coloured marble, there’s a quintessential Italian quality about the space that feels timeless. The rectangular light fixtures, reminiscent of the very first Scarpetta outpost in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, immediately grab our attention. The atmosphere is almost recreated here but set amid the beautiful grounds of Waldorf Astoria Doha Lusail.

The dining room is rather massive, right next to an entertainment area that looks like the place to be on a Doha weekend. The alfresco set up is simple and comfortable, with views of the resort’s pool and beach – definitely a sight for sore eyes. The weather is still good in Doha, so this is where we will dine tonight, on the terrace.

We are instantly greeted by Myet, who introduces himself as our host for the evening. He’s delightful and if the novelty of a restaurant that made its way around the world (Rome, Tokyo and other cities) isn’t enough, Myet’s welcome suffices to assure us we’re in good hands. He brings the beverage menu and the crafted drinks are a great introduction to what’s to come. We select the Black Stone Berry – a hibiscus tea-based mocktail with passionfruit and raspberry syrup, and La Manguita – composed of mango, lemongrass and sage. An earthy and fruity combination, this drink is easily our favourite with an unexpected spicy kick.

We’re started off with some dreamily soft focaccia alongside some caponata and mascarpone butter. It’s addictive, but we’ve promised ourselves not to finish it. Loading up on bread is tempting when we’re hungry, but we know better.

While we’re waiting, Myet brings Scarpetta’s Amuse Bouche of the day – a Mushroom Ball. If this deep-fried circle of goodness is anything to go by, our next courses promise to please. Luckily, it’s on the menu so we’re definitely ordering this next time.

We pick the best sellers from the appetiser menu, as recommended by Myet. The Braised Short Rib is slow cooked for 24 hours, and we can tell as our knives slide through like butter. A gravy sauce on top really uplifts the flavour but the premium meat still shines. The Charred Octopus is clearly a crowd pleaser. Perfectly cooked and served on a bed of marble potato with artichokes, scallions and celery. A light dish that really focuses on the main ingredient, this octopus is truly the taste of summer. For mains, we aren’t faced with an easy choice. Every dish on this menu looks stellar. Everything we’ve tried thus far has delivered, so we’re expecting the same delight from our pasta and pizza selections.

The Short Rib and Bone Marrow Agnolotti is unlike anything we’ve tried before. It’s an obvious choice given how loved it is at the New York restaurant. It’s common to enhance flavours with bone marrow in Northern Italian cooking (think Risotto alla Milanese Con L’Ossobuco) but bone marrow in a pasta is risky business. The chef, however, knows exactly what he’s doing. This homemade pasta is al dente, filled with the most tender short rib and the bone marrow makes it unforgettable. We’re not complaining about the grease – it really is the good kind and we’re starting to feel like we can’t get enough of it.

Our host recommends the Ravioli Cacio e Pepe. It’s one of the signature dishes and it really highlights the chef’s talent. With charred leeks, brown butter and sage, this stuffed ravioli should be the talk of the town. The filling is lush and creamy and the sauce is impossibly smooth. It’s a little experience of its own and one we’re surely giving ourselves again.

The chef decides on our pizza tonight and surprises us with the Beef Spicy Salami. With a perfect crust, this pie brings the heat with harissa and spicy beef spinata. The pecorino and mozzarella cheese melt so gently and every slice is a treat for all the senses. It doesn’t sound like we’ve gone too far with our menu choices, but at this point we’ve reached the end of the road as far as our stomach capacities go. The Valrhona Chocolate Cake has our attention but so does the Tiramisu. Unfortunately, this is one of the rare moments in our life where we are far too full to order two desserts. So, we take a tough call – Tiramisu it is. We’re interested to see the modern take on this very classic Italian dessert. It arrives in a sleek glass, crowned with half a chocolate dome on top. Our host Myet pours hot espresso over it and melts the chocolate into the glass. It’s a nice gimmick and thankfully, it’s not just that. The taste matches up and we’re happy to conclude our dining experience at Scarpetta with this sweet highlight.

The service tonight has been flawless. A warm and intimate setting in a sophisticated space complemented by food that comforts the soul. We’ve had a splendid night out at Scarpetta Doha, straight out of New York City. ✤

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