AMS headed to Bentley’s Grill at Radisson Blu Hotel, Doha, to experience timeless elegance coupled with outstanding flavours.

When you get an invite to what might be Doha’s best-known steakhouse, you clear the diary. Bentley’s Grill is the OG. It’s the epitome of tradition, refinement and fine dining in Doha. Decked out in dark wood panelling, it felt like we were entering a private members’ club. The restaurant itself was filled with large, soft leather chairs. Pristine white tablecloths adorned the tables and hanging above were enormous golden chandeliers, which added a touch of decadence. My wife also immediately noticed the romantic, single red roses in vases.

The classic, elegant styling extended to the formal place setting. There were glasses for each type of beverage and forks, knives and napkins. Everything had its place and was just so.

Melanie met us with a smile as we walked in and helped settle us into our seats. As if by magic, a basket of warm bread arrived. Alongside, there were three intriguingly flavoured butters – jalapeño, roasted bell pepper and tangy goat cheese. I loved them all but was particularly impressed by the punchy jalapeño that woke up my taste buds.

Setting the Bar

This was immediately followed by a lovely gesture – a complimentary amuse bouche. The dainty pot contained creamy cauliflower mousse topped with a mango purée. It was smooth and light, with a subtle earthiness.

Our starters didn’t take long to arrive. The scallop cake came first. It was everything you’d want it to be – golden on the outside with a soft, meaty centre. I thoroughly enjoyed downing each bite with generous dollops of beurre blanc and even managed to squeeze on some mushroom and spinach for good measure. The beetroot-cured salmon gravlax, by comparison, looked almost too pretty to eat. I felt guilty tearing apart the ribbons of pink and dredging them in the horseradish cream.

Nothing, though, could have prepared us for the indulgent lobster bisque. The rich broth was perfectly balanced with a soothing dollop of crème fraîche. The only thing stopping me from lifting the bowl and chugging it like a Neanderthal was the glare radiating from my wife. It was divine.

In life, it’s often the small details that make the difference. Bentley’s is all about these details. While we relaxed, our helpful waitress swept crumbs from the table with quiet precision, clearing the way for more dishes to come.

Before the mains, Executive Chef Wolfgang Goedl stopped by to ask how everything was. We spoke about the restaurant’s consistent delivery and its elevated approach to fine dining. The chef explained how Bentley’s sticks to classic techniques and timeless dishes.

As he returned to the kitchen, our mains arrived on a serving trolley. To complement the beautiful steak, there was an equally beautiful steak knife from Forge de Laguiole. As a knife enthusiast, this important detail was not lost on me.

Steaks and More

And what an amazing job they did with the Wagyu ribeye. It had the perfect sear and, as I cut in, revealed flesh that was pink from top to bottom. The layers of natural fat had been rendered to deliver deep, buttery flavour. Dipping it in the chimichurri sauce raised it to another level. We had to remind ourselves to stop making noises as we ate. The mantra, ‘Mmmmmm!’, was repeated at least 10 times.

The mushroom-crusted lamb loin seemed the ideal pairing for the beef. It was all about textures. Outside, it was caked in a crisp topping that offered a satisfying crunch. Once we bit in, we were rewarded with pink and juicy meat. The whole affair was sitting on top of the creamiest polenta we’ve ever tasted. A smattering of sundried tomatoes ensured the dish looked as good as it tasted. For a lighter option, we chose the sea bass and scallops. The scallops were soft and plump, with perfectly caramelised edges. The fish flaked effortlessly under our forks. The pool of saffron sauce was a subtle addition that enhanced both without overwhelming them.

Show-Stealing Sides

Our side dishes, which were also ridiculously tasty, seemed determined to try and steal the limelight. The gratin was insanely good. Layers of thinly sliced potato and cheese joined forces in an amazing combination. The onion rings were feather-light and our Yorkshire puddings were crisp on the outside with fluffy interiors – the perfect vehicles for soaking up gravy.

Perfect Ending

To signal the end of our main courses, a little surprise pre-dessert made its way to our table. Made from frozen berries and warm white chocolate sauce, it fizzed and crackled in the cup. This didn’t deter us from sampling two more items from the dessert menu – avocado chocolate mascarpone cheesecake and raspberry pavlova. The cheesecake enticed us with the promise of something slightly unusual. We weren’t disappointed. The avocado added a smoothness that played well against the slight bitterness of the chocolate. The sharp berry compote cut through with a welcome touch of sharpness. The pavlova was light and delicate, by comparison. The meringue was reassuringly chewy in the centre and, on several occasions, occupied our mouths to the extent that we couldn’t speak. The whipped Namelaka cream, glossy vanilla sauce and pistachio ice cream on the side were the perfect accompaniments.

Amid the array of fusion restaurants springing up throughout the country, Bentley’s stands as a pillar of tradition. The classic approach to cooking and range of much-loved dishes offers a familiar and reassuring dining experience. High-end ingredients are combined to create time-honoured flavours, in a refined and elegant setting. Service is prompt but never overbearing; the staff exude a quiet confidence in the sheer quality of their product and everyone knows exactly what they’re doing. If you want to be spoiled, and love the finer things in life, you can’t get any better than Bentley’s Grill. ✤

GO: CALL 4428 1555 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING.