A new language of luxury finds a home in the spring-summer 23 collection from legendary Italian house, Ferragamo.
For Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo debut, the designer unveils a new dawn for the brand: a renaissance of its Hollywood history. “I wanted to pay tribute to Salvatore’s start by bringing in the culture of Hollywood – but new Hollywood,” explains Davis. “Its ease and sensuality; its sunset and sunrise.”
This fresh language of luxury blends contemporary clarity with the purity of Florentine drape: an homage to the home of the house. Ethereal elegance materialises through sheer knits, liquid silk and layers of organza, but appears grounded by suede sandals drawn from Renaissance reality, and the tangible allure of polished accessories.
The languid, beachfront glamour of new Hollywood is subverted by glossy leathers, second-skin fits and micro shorts. Elevated everyday essentials – tank tops, polo necks, leggings – appear almost contradictory in their simplicity. Effortless knits are wide woven to reveal the skin beneath or so fine as to appear translucent. Even eveningwear is imbued with insouciance. Drawing upon the sparkling red shoes Ferragamo made for Marilyn Monroe in 1959, the collection appears scattered with crystals: the Hollywood hallmarks of glitz and glamour refracted anew.
Tailoring twists the classically masculine tropes of ’80s executives into a modern wardrobe: perfectly proportioned, louche refinement formed from fabrics often reserved for womenswear. The tuxedo is imbued with new energy: shirting cut in silk organza and cotton poplin; collars or sleeves removed. “I want each piece to feel playful, but also desirable as an object,” says Davis. “To stand on its own.”
Floating scarves appear streamlined; archival prints reduced, redrawn and reimagined. Draped into new forms, they revitalise the formative codes of the Ferragamo DNA. “It was about looking into the archive and establishing what could be redefined to become relevant for today,” explains Davis.
A palette extracted from Rachel Harrison’s Sunset Series colours degradé prints and hand-dyed knits; from optic white to deep indigo, butter-soft yellow to sky blue. A new Pantone red formally codifies the brand’s iconic hue. ✤
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