Big cuts, bold flavours, no half measures. Sirine Boudjadi heads to Chicago Rare and finds a steakhouse that plays it right.

There are very few places in Doha I’ll visit without much convincing and Four Seasons Resort and Residences at The Pearl-Qatar is one of them. Blame it on Chef Pâtissier Nicolas Rouzaud’s Maison de Haute Pâtisserie and its outrageously good cookies, but this time I had a different reason to make the trip: Chicago Rare, the hotel’s steakhouse. I’d brunched here before and liked it well enough, but dinner is a different story entirely. Even the atmosphere is different. The main dining space is all deep crimson walls, tufted burgundy banquettes, amber-lit gold curtains and oversized Art Deco chandeliers that look like they were plucked straight from a 1920s Chicago supper club.

Black-and-white photographs line the walls, showing jazz musicians, street scenes and portraits, the effect is less themed restaurant and more genuine time capsule. Then there’s the dry-ageing cabinet near the entrance, a glass-fronted showcase crowned with a bull sculpture, where cuts are hung and displayed. Wednesday through Saturday evenings, a live jazz band takes over for Swing & Sizzle nights, where the music is as carefully considered as the menu.

Speaking of the menu, it spans both à la carte options and a daily chef’s selection. On this occasion, the kitchen put together a bespoke mix of dishes. First up, the Red Endive Salad with caramelised nuts, goat cheese, peaches, pomegranate and honey dressing. Endives and I have never really seen eye to eye, but this version changed things. The bitterness is kept in check by the sweetness of the peaches and pomegranate, the creaminess of the cheese, and a honey dressing that is genuinely good.

Another signature starter here is the Veal Bone Marrow, Chicago style, served with giardiniera pickles and brioche toast. For the uninitiated, bone marrow is the soft, fatty tissue found inside the bone, roasted until it melts into something deeply savoury and indulgent. The giardiniera condiment cuts through the richness nicely and the brioche toast is the perfect vehicle for all of it.

It’s now time for the main event: the USDA Prime Meat Board. And what really makes it stand out is the variety. You’ve got tenderloin, striploin, flank steak and a beautifully barbecue-smoked brisket, all on one board, each cut bringing its own personality. The tenderloin melts in the mouth, buttery and delicate. The flank delivers that satisfying chew and deeper, beefier flavour. And the brisket? Pure smoke and comforting. On the side: onion rings, fries and a mac and cheese that honestly deserves its own spotlight. Golden, bubbling, perfectly rich… I could’ve easily ordered it as a main and walked away completely satisfied, no hesitation. The garlic mayo deserves a special mention too. Supposedly for the onion rings, but let’s be real, it ends up everywhere. For something even more indulgent, the Willis Burger is an obvious choice. A 170g Wagyu patty, topped with American cheddar, lettuce, tomato, red onion. Nothing excessive, just a lineup that makes sense. On the side, the truffle duck fat fries bring the extra touch.

To wrap things up, two desserts we probably don’t need but are never going to pass on. The Chicago Style Cheesecake arrives in a properly generous slice, very much designed for sharing. Topped with a honey blueberry compote and confit lemon zest, it leans rich and jammy, balanced by a smooth, creamy base. The lemon cuts through to keep things from tipping too far. A classic, done exactly right. But the real standout is the Sticky Toffee Pudding. The warm toffee sauce is poured tableside, soaking straight into the sponge, which somehow stays light and tender. On top, a brown butter banana ice cream slowly melts into the heat, folding into the sauce as it goes. The perfect end to a meal that’s been indulgence from beginning to end.

Tea in hand, things start to slow down. The table, once full, is cleared, the meal giving way to something lighter. It’s a good moment to take stock: what began as an easy excuse to return ended up far more convincing. Safe to say, it won’t just be the pâtisserie pulling me back next time. ✤

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