BORDERLESS FLAVOURS OF THE LEVANT

Emille Loyola-Artigas discovers Sofra restaurant at Alwadi Hotel Doha MGallery Hotel Collection, a space that celebrates individual countries from the Levant region, unifying its cultures and their deep food legacy, and blending them with the rich heritage of Qatar.


Levantine cuisine is the true traditional food found in the Levant region, known in Arabic as the Bilad ash-Sham, or Land of the North, which today spans Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine, Syria, Southern Turkey and Cyprus.

To understand this style of cooking, we have to appreciate its history and geography. It’s a section of the Middle East that circles from the Mediterranean Sea, passing by the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers and the Dead Sea. The food is seasonal and colourful, uses a lot of flowers and spices and is well known for its opulent aromas. Many of the dishes are similar but made in different ways. Sofra restaurant, which transforms the richness of traditional tastes into contemporary cuisines, is located on the ground floor of the Alwadi Hotel Doha MGallery Hotel Collection. It is one of our favourite hotels in Qatar, so there was quite a bit of expectation before we got there. It did not disappoint.

As we arrived at the hotel, we were ushered to the hallway that lets you feel the theme as you walk towards the restaurant reception, then we were warmly welcomed and led to our seats. We were immediately impressed with the interior, intricately adorned with the details of Qatari traditions. Images of dhow boats on the ceiling made a remarkable impression; one of the most stunning and unique ornaments I have seen. There is an outdoor seating area as well, so you can dine amidst the views of the Msheireb and Souq Waqif.

The food started to come with a lavish selection of dips, salads and cold and hot mezza. With each plate, we were more and more impressed with the presentation. First to arrive was the beautifully served amuse bouche, a teaser of a portion, a plate on a stone. It is not only picture perfect, but also made our taste buds swoon with a playful mixture of lamb and creamy sauce. That was followed by Moutabel, chargrilled eggplant mixed with tahini, yoghurt, lemon juice and garlic. It was so flavourful! Tabbouleh with pomegranate was next, an even more enticing mixture of fine-cut parsley with tomato, onion, bulgur, fresh mint and lemon, complemented with dried pomegranate seeds and dressing. The Lebanese Fattoush is a delightful discovery, displayed in a clear glass bowl and shaken in front of us before it’s served, is a mixture of fresh cut tomato, cucumber, capsicum, lettuce, mint leaves and fresh zaatar, with an exclusively made chef dressing.

We continued on our Levantine feast with the staple hummus, and we were served with the Sofra Signature Hummus Selection, a palate-teasing offering of six chef-speciality versions. Each was so tasty but, in the end, I decided my favourite was the meat hummus, with seared minced lamb and pine nuts. It was so good, it disappeared in minutes.

The hot mezze ensemble was started by Fried Shrimp Kibbeh; homemade kibbeh stuffed with minced shrimp, fresh coriander and pine nuts. This was followed by Fried Lamb Kibbeh with Cherry: minced lamb, pine nuts and onion in perfectly seasoned cherry sauce. Then, my favourite of the night was the tasty and flawlessly tendered sausages in a tangy pomegranate sauce called Soujok with Pomegranate Molasses. The flavours of the sauce and meat blended so well I could not have enough.

The main courses started with a Grilled Meat Grand Platter which is made up of charcoal grilled Australian lamb chops, shish tawook, lamb kebab and kofta served with Khashkhash sauce, muhamura flat bread and steak fries. Savoury Chicken Shawarma arrived shortly after. Served with tasty homemade garlic sauce, cucumber, pickles and fries, it is easily understandable why it’s the crowd’s favourite, as we were told.

Levantine desserts are truly amazing. Household masterpieces that have travelled through time and transport you from one tradition to another. So, for dessert, we chose Arabic style puff pastry, Umm Ali with fresh milk, nuts and Chantilly cream to go along with Arabic ice cream with pistachios. Sofra’s version of these desserts with the delicate pastry crust and the rich aroma attributed to the Arabic essences, made these sweet dishes even more of a treat.

I have always believed that food is culture and the Levantine cuisine served at Sofra impeccably distorts the border lines to create a food journey with dishes that are similar in substance and yet different in interpretation. Each represents a tradition, and the experience at Sofra is a flavourful voyage that will transport you to the very heart of the region. It honours each area’s cuisines in a contemporary way but keeps them refined. It was so enriching that we have decided to go back for more, as the dining experience was more than a culinary exploration, it was a heartwarming celebration. ✤

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