FACT’s Muhammad Asad Ullah heads to newly opened Miss Wong, at Hilton Salwa Beach Resort & Villas, which is a love song to China and a new take on a much-loved cuisine.

From dim sum to local cuisines, from Chinese imports to Western experiments with Eastern flavours, there’s never been a more exciting period to be an East Asian food fan in Qatar. We’re in the middle of a true culinary resurgence, where Chinese restauranteurs are blatantly returning to the flavours and textures of the country’s myriad regions.

Best described as a hidden gem for Chinese food, Miss Wong is the perfect spot to get your bao fix while admiring a breathtaking location, interior and ambience.

The restaurant invigorates traditional Chinese recipes adding a little modern twist. Foodies can sample the different flavours of China, from Cantonese-inspired dim sum to the sugariness of Shanghai, the fiery flavours of Sichuan and the wholesome flavours of Beijing. The well thought-out and curated menu of Miss Wong takes you on a culinary tour of China in a real sense.

After a drive of about an hour with friends, we reach Hilton Salwa. As we walk into the resort, we see the place buzzing with people, which is a surprise to me since it is my first time here and that too on a week day. We head towards Miss Wong and as we enter through the big red doors we’re met with the sound of Chinese Dong. A dramatic welcome that bodes classic flavours.

The contrast of the chic décor is warm – think antique chandeliers, wood detailing and a vibe indicative of modern-day Shanghai’s French Concession — the interior acts as the perfect backdrop for an Insta-worthy moment. In addition to two floors, diners can experience the vibrant energy of China in a secluded private dining room, where we are seated.

There’s a menu before me, and I glance through it, but I know I’m in good hands. Fifteen minutes later, I’m proved right as the appetisers of the night, the Chinese Wood Ear Mushroom and Cucumber Salad, Szechuan Spicy Icy Jelly, Hot and Sour Seafood Soup (paired with vegetable spring rolls), and assorted dumplings (vegetable, lamb, beef and chicken) are set before me.

The soup is really hot, in terms of spices that is, and perfectly paired with spring rolls. I can hardly smell egg in the soup, which is an absolute bliss for someone like myself who’s spot on with culinary scents. The shrimp is well done and so is the tofu and the mild slick mushroom, which is a dear ingredient binding up the flavours and muting the spices.

The mushroom salad has to be my favourite appetiser. There’s coriander, onion, and glass noodles all tossed in vinegar, sesame oil, and soy sauce that meshes perfectly to sweet and umami flavours..

The food is oddly reassuring in that I recognise all the flavours no matter how many dishes I try — it’s just that the crispy Peking Duck and Chinese-style roast lamb are better than any version of these classics I’ve had before.

Focussing on classic Chinese barbecue and butchery, the dishes are theatrical without being gimmicky. Lamb and duck are fleshy, tender, and melt-in-the-mouth. The duck is so well marinated that I can feel the flavours even in the last bite; perfectly crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside with a drizzle of fragrant truffle oil. Once it’s all worked in together, it is smoky, velvety, rich, spicy — every adjective all at once.

The appetisers are paired with Cup of Wonder, a drink made of rice grape vinegar, sweetened and spiced oolong tea, ginger ale and cinnamon. The tase of cinnamon is strong but manages to balance and mute the spices of the appetisers. It’s a combination I have never tried before but, to my surprise, is quite pleasant.

With dim sum done, it’s time for the big guns: stir-fried wagyu beef (Miss Wong style), wok-fried lamb, and braised Canadian lobster appear in quick succession. There’s also a nostalgia-laden dish of crispy noodles and wok-fried egg rice and vegetables that hits me in a specific culinary comfort zone. “It’s comforting,” I tell my friend sitting next to me. He laughs, agreeing, and says he’s going to put that on his Instagram. The wagyu beef is so crispy and flavoursome that you’ll be fighting away your dining companion’s chopsticks for the last bite.

Common to all the dishes are the clean flavour profiles and picturesque presentation. Everything I am served is much more photogenic than food this comforting has any right to be. With all the mains, we’re served with Silk Blossom, a refreshing mocktail with strawberry, rose water, mint and sprite. A perfect combination to beat the heat and hot spices.

In this capacious eatery, all the classics are available with far more room to breathe. Not only is it true for the mains, but for the desserts that have just been served. Jasmin Tea Lychee Mousse Cake, and Mango Sago Cream. Absolute standouts and an outand-out balance of nothing too sweet, yet sugary enough to satisfy the sweet tooth.

Dinner is concluded with ‘The Fortune Teller’ drink. A goblet of almond milk, condensed milk, espresso, vanilla syrup and rose essence with a small slip of paper rolled on the foot of the goblet bearing words of wisdom for its drinker.

There’s also an option for selected beverages on the menu. We had a really enjoyable evening sampling the best in Oriential cuisine and what makes this restaurant even more special is that quality food and a welcoming atmosphere come along with great value for money. ✤

GO: CALL 5593 8084 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.