THESSALONIKI CANNOT BE DESCRIBED IN ONE WORD OR ONE SENTENCE. IT IS THE KIND OF PLACE THAT WOULD TAKE AT LEAST AN EVENING TO EXPLAIN DUE TO ITS COMPLEXITY AND YET SIMPLICITY. IT IS THE MOST MAGNIFICENTLY MEMORABLE MAINLAND DESTINATION IN GREECE, ACCORDING TO HELEN HOUGHTON…

I t is fair to say that as far as travel and dining experiences go, I am no stranger to disappointment and discovering that much hyped happening, hotspots are actually just limp and lukewarm. The sprawling Metropolis’ of Paris, New York and London are famed for their landmarks, cultural diversity, unique cuisine and charm. However, for me there is a sense of soullessness in these cities, a lack of warmth and feeling of belonging, due largely to the daunting scale of these cities. The need to plan every moment in order to ‘make the most’ of your precious time there which removes the opportunity for anything impromptu or spontaneous. There is no scope for meandering or moseying. When friends would ask ‘Which is your favourite city?’ I would reply with a shrug. Until now…

The wealth of stories which form the heart of this mesmerising city originate from the periods when the Romans and Ottomans, and, of course, the Greeks inhabited the city and most importantly accessed and controlled the vast Port. Thessaloniki is surprisingly accessible from most airports in the UK and around Europe as it is the gateway to the beautiful beaches of Halkidiki, Mount Olympus and Athos, and to the south Meteora. These are undeniably arresting tourist traps, although if you venture into Thessaloniki, en-route you may never make it to your intended destination. The city is intoxicating and has an addictive warmth and hospitality. It has an abundance of history, statuesque landmarks and an enviable location offering both sea and mountain views as you stroll along the expansive promenade.

The sparkling waters of the Thermaic Gulf lap against the fringes of the city and provide the perfect backdrop for many of the enticing eateries and bars. Whether you choose to take coffee, which is more about a meeting of minds and opinions than refreshment or sip Tsipouro as the sun goes down you will find yourself spoilt for choice. Venture deeper into the heart of the city to the to the mesmerising Kapani Market where fresh produce and spices tantalise your senses. In its past life the area was a flour market bordering the eclectic Aristotle Square. The square proudly bears the name of one of the region’s most famous residents.

‘The soul never thinks without a picture’ Aristotle

Kapani is without a doubt the image which our souls would summon when thinking about a bustling market brimming with the freshest peaches, figs, olives and the finest fish the Mediterranean has to offer. Close by is the Turkish Hammam which, once again, oozes history from its pores and around which locals while away hours in coffee houses or pick up delectable treats in the plethora of delicatessens and shops.

Presiding resplendently above the more modern districts of the city is Ladadika which was spared by the fire of 1917 which destroyed much of the city. It had been a hub for merchants but is now one of the few areas where the city walls remain intact and one of the most unique and upmarket areas for locals to reside. The cooler climes, winding tiered streets, and pastel, painted properties are a stark contrast to the modern city and constitute another fascinating chapter.

Trying to choose a place to eat is probably the only taxing activity you will encounter, simply due to the volume of truly fabulous fayre. Thessaloniki Tourism Organisation proudly herald the city as Greece’s Culinary Capital, supporting a series of events and activities which encourage gastronomic tourism. The guided food tour of the city highlights its roots and origins in order for participants to better understand the nature of the cuisine. Of course, it would be rude not to indulge oneself as you traverse a series of local specialties and rub shoulders with market traders and stylish Thessalonians as you progress from one delicious spot to the next.

‘Quality is not an act; it is a habit’ Aristotle The food scene is a habit which should be encouraged in everyone that visits simply because restaurateurs and producers have embraced the ethos of unwavering consistency and quality

The stretch of promenade from the Port area to the White Tower is so captivating that it stole my heart. The cruise boats which pass by loaded with visitors and locals alike, the chatter and aromas which emanate from the pavement bars and restaurants and finally the piece de resistance …… The White Tower. It used to unite the Western and Seaside walls of the city but is now one of the most beautiful and iconic images the city has to offer.

The city has such a strong sense of identity and the inhabitants possess an innate sense of pride in their surroundings. There are so many places which claim to be a ‘melting pot’ of cultures, tastes and minds yet I think there is no finer one than Thessaloniki. The wealth of History, migration and trade has generated an exclusive outlook, varied cuisine and the warmest welcome you could ever hope to receive. ✤