Unique dining experiences are always exciting. Fernanda Langhammer headed to Andaz Doha to uncover the path to great food.
I find it fascinating how a simple, common and even ordinary ingredient like salt can be at the centre of a culinary journey. But that’s what I encountered in my dining experience at The Salt Road Doha at Andaz Doha.
Located by the beautifully decorated lobby (the hotel’s lobby is unmissable, it exhibits a mix of Arabic patterns with modern art and on the ceiling, an eye-catching canopy bears a design that alludes to Qatar’s traditional craft of Sadu weaving), The Salt Road Doha is a venture from Chefs Craig Cormack and Beau du Toit, offering internationally-inspired dishes crafted with South African techniques, with selected salts elevating each creation.
I had the pleasure of meeting Chef Craig at an event a couple of years ago, where he passionately explained why this often overlooked ingredient became the driving force behind his culinary career. It’s a fascinating story, and he’s been spreading knowledge and showcasing the many different types of salt worldwide.
On entering the eatery in Doha, you’re welcomed by a vast collection of salt specimens from Mozambique, Germany, Scotland, France and many other countries – some donated by guests. And guess what? Not all of them are white; it’s like a collection of colourful sand that adds a unique touch to the décor. Regarding the interiors, the restaurant offers an indoor dining room and an outdoor terrace. Inside, the colour scheme is primarily black and white, with touches of brown ranging from pale beige to darker tones. The wood panels in the ceiling create a cosy atmosphere while the patterned tiles add a funky touch to the space. The open kitchen lets you observe the chefs at work and have a peek at the Josper – everything harmoniously working to the tune of Chef Calum.
The dining journey started with a beautiful, warm loaf of bread that we topped with butter and received three types of salt to accompany it: Kala Namak (known for its sulphur note), Black Salt from Hawaii and Baleni Salt (hand-harvested salt from a geothermal spring in South Africa) – such a creative way to help us navigate this vast yet not widely known world of salts. I previously followed a vegan diet, and Kala Namak was present in my scrambled tofu for a touch of eggy flavour, but it was the first time my dining companion had tried it and she was amazed and intrigued by the taste of it – salt can be surprising sometimes.
The menu is straightforward, and I personally liked that it offered a variety of small plates for sharing. I am an olive lover (any type), and if I see them on a menu, I tend to go for them. The mixed selection of green and black types came bathed in herbs, chilli, onions and garlic, very succulent and yummy just how I like them. We then tried the Burnt Leeks, charred on the outside and moist and juicy on the inside. This was accompanied by toasted hazelnuts and whipped ricotta, which added a delightful contrast of creamy, light texture with rich, nutty, earthy notes, creating a sweet-savoury balance to the dish. My dining companion couldn’t stop raving about how delicious it was. We also ordered the Charred Asparagus served with runny smoked egg yolk and sauce vierge (an uncooked French sauce typically made with tomatoes, olive oil and fresh herbs such as parsley). The vegetable was crunchy, the way I like it, and the flavour profile played with the deep, buttery richness of the yolk, with the fresh, acidic notes of the sauce adding complex layers to the grassy hints of the asparagus – it was my turn to be enthusiastic about how divine it was.
For mains, I had the Grilled Prawns in seaweed reduction, and my colleague opted for the USA tenderloin 250g, with an interesting twist: slaphakskeentjies sauce. This dish (with a tongue-twister name) is a traditional South African staple made with baby onions cooked until soft and served in a tangy, sweet-sour mustard sauce. At The Salt Road, it was transformed as the accompanying sauce for the tenderloin, adding a piquant kick to the meat. My prawns were kept whole and cooked with a seaweed reduction on top, enhancing their sweet, succulent flavour and adding salty, briny and umami-rich notes for a sophisticated flavour profile. For the side dish, we were unanimous: Parmesan Fries. The mention of a secret salt caught my attention. The fries were cooked to perfection and arrived at our table piping hot, which made me forget about uncovering the mystery ingredient; they were nonetheless delicious.
We couldn’t leave without trying the unique desserts, so we asked Chef Calum for help. My colleague is a chocolate fan and went for the Chocolate & Almond Torte with an unexpected twist: burnt marshmallow ice cream. She loved the soft brownie texture of the torte. I went down a more adventurous path, choosing the Malva Pudding, something I had never tried before. Made with Rooibos custard and Cape Malay poached peach, it was right up my alley, with cinnamon hints and a tart flavour I adored. South Africa, especially the Western Cape, is a major peach producer, perfect for preserving and cooking. The fruit is often used in traditional Cape Malay cuisine, which blends South African, Malay, Indian and Dutch influences, creating sweet-tart compotes. It was a completely new taste for me, and I absolutely loved it.
If you are looking for creative cuisine rooted in simplicity, head to The Salt Road to discover an innovative menu that relies on high-quality ingredients, delivering effortless flavours that linger on your palate and leave a smile on your lips. ✤
GO: CALL 4452 4044 OR 5040 3479 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING.
