A terrace seat, Italian classics and a reason to linger: Sirine Boudjadi revisits Cecconi’s at The Ned Doha and is reminded why it’s always one of her go-to spots.

Coming back to a great restaurant is a bit like replaying a favourite track. You think you know every beat, every drop yet somehow, it still hits. I’d been to Cecconi’s before, brunch included, so expectations were set. High, but realistic. Over the years, Cecconi’s has secured its place among Doha’s most reliable Italian addresses. With outposts spanning New York, Miami, Berlin, Istanbul and Mumbai, the brand carries the quiet confidence that only comes with time (the story began in 1978).

Today, we do things differently. With the weather finally on our side, the terrace feels like the obvious choice. Spacious, green, and refreshingly calm, it instantly slows the pace. We’re greeted by Gianluca, the Restaurant Manager. He talks us through the menu, the thinking behind the place, like someone genuinely proud of what’s been built here. We can tell how much of himself he’s pouring into it. At the table, Brian takes over with a smooth, precise and perfectly measured service.

Stick To The Classics

The true test of any restaurant? Order the classics. So that’s what we do, and we do it the Italian way, meant for sharing. Here, conviviality isn’t a concept, it’s a given. Fingers encouraged.

We start by reaching for the truffle arancini, no hesitation. I bite in while they’re still piping hot, the crust cracking under my teeth before giving way to a soft, molten centre. The fried zucchini, served with lemon and aioli, are polished off in no time. One of Cecconi’s signatures follows quickly: the Margherita pizza. The crust is blistered and lightly charred, airy but with enough structure to hold its own. I fold a slice and immediately understand why this one never leaves the menu. Bright tomato, buffalo mozzarella melting, basil still fragrant and fresh. I like that the dough is fluffy, easy to chew and above all, never sits heavy (always a win). Left alone, we’d probably clear the entire tray without a second thought. But considering what Gianluca has lined up next, restraint feels wise. Thankfully, the team brings the Insalata Caprese to freshen things up! Cool buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripe tomatoes, good olive oil: nothing more, nothing less. A reminder of just how satisfying simplicity can be when the ingredients are spot on.

All Roads Lead To Pasta

When it comes to choosing sides, I’m firmly team pasta. I could eat it every day without hesitation and, if we’re being honest, I’d happily die for a good cacio e pepe (I know, dramatic). So, when Gianluca suggests trying it, there’s really no debate. Yes, there’s a small twist: a parmesan cream instead of the traditional pecorino one. A deviation, technically. But one that works. Cacio e pepe may look simple, almost too obvious, yet it’s one of those dishes that can go very wrong. I’ve had versions that were clumpy, bland or just forgettable. This one isn’t. The sauce is smooth and generous, clinging perfectly to every tonnarelli. It’s creamy, comforting and dangerously moreish. Any thought of restraint I had left after the pizza is quickly abandoned. One life, after all.

The more refined option, the fettuccine with lobster, catches my friend’s eye. The pasta is coated in a rich bisque, with tender pieces of lobster, a touch of marjoram and a squeeze of lemon to sharpen the edges. Elegant and well balanced, it’s a dish for those who like a little extra flair. More disciplined than I am, she leaves a few bites behind. Or perhaps she’s simply saving room for dessert?

Before that, there’s still one more plate to come: one of the Chef’s Specials, a Risotto Osso Buco. It’s rich and generous, saffron warming the rice, Parmesan doing what Parmesan does best, a final lift of parsley at the end. Deeply satisfying, exactly what you expect from this classic. At this point, choosing a favourite feels unnecessary. The only real question left is how much room we’ve saved for what’s next.

Dolci, Done Right

Caprese Cake, Sicilian Cannoli Ricotta, Roman Maritozzo… The dessert menu reads like a greatest hits of Italian signatures. Yet one name pulls the eye instantly, framed and written in capital letters: ‘CECCONI’S CLASSIC, Traditional Tiramisu’. And yes, it lives up to its name. Even if you’re not a devoted tiramisu lover, this one is hard to stop once you’ve started. Light but properly structured, not overly sweet, with a clear hit of coffee and a clean, bitter finish from the cocoa. It gets everything right and, unsurprisingly, the plate is left spotless. My dining companion, who has lived in Doha for the past 11 years and has tasted more tiramisus than she can count, doesn’t hesitate: this one sits firmly at the top of her list. I can’t say I’ve tried them all (yet), but it’s also one of my favourites. Proof, if any were needed, that saving room for dessert was the right call. One we’d happily come back for! ✤

GO: CALL 4406 1111 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING.