FACT’s Kalvin Ng headed to Thailand via the Banyan Tree Doha.

Although Doha isn’t short of options for fine Thai cuisine, Saffron is a cut above the rest – literally. Located on the 24th floor of the Banyan Tree Doha hotel in Msheireb, the restaurant offers stunning, panoramic views of the Corniche and the gleaming skyscrapers of West Bay across the water. The elegant lighting, smoky mirrors and copper-hued interiors added a touch of sophistication, making it an ideal venue for an intimate meal as the sun set over the city.

Thailand is often called ‘The Land of Smiles’. This was clear from the moment the hostess welcomed me into the spacious dining room. The service was equally friendly and courteous throughout. Head Chef Porntip Eumanan explained that Saffron is the signature Thai restaurant of every Banyan Tree hotel in the world. With 22 years of experience under her apron, she knew how to add something special to well-known Thai dishes at the Doha outpost. For example, while many restaurants offer a papaya salad, Porntip gave it her twist by pairing it with soft shell crab, deep-fried in a batter with just a hint of red curry. The duck in the spicy duck salad was marinated for six hours, slow grilled for another hour, then sliced and flavoured with a delicate chilli and mint dressing. She suggested rolling the duck pieces around a bouquet of fresh herbs. I dutifully obliged before devouring the little parcel.

The Khong Wang Ruam meat appetiser platter for two was a mix of tradition and innovation. Tender chicken satay skewers and fresh rice paper rolls with sea bass sat alongside a gentle pomelo salad. Prawns were wrapped in noodles then deep-fried, creating a delightfully crunchy snack. This was followed by two staples of Thai cuisine: seafood Tom Yum soup, and Tom Kha Gai, a creamy chicken and coconut soup. Both achieved the perfect harmony of sweet, sour, salty and spicy.

The unique touches extended to the main course: a creamy chicken green curry was accompanied by a side of fish floss, which the diner could sprinkle on top to add a delicate umami layer. The tartness of the tamarind cut through the sweet and sour fried tiger prawns, while a fresh banana blossom salad almost stole the show from the Pad Thai. Each dish was executed with poise and a light touch, all washed down with imaginative mocktails from bartender Kevin that wouldn’t look out of place on a beach in Phuket, or in the hustle-and-bustle of downtown Bangkok.

Chef Porntip promised something special for dessert, and she didn’t disappoint. Mango sticky rice puddings can sometimes be too heavy or, well, too sticky. Here, the consistency of the glutinous rice was just right. The star of the dish, however, was the coconut ice cream, made according to the chef’s secret recipe. It was fluffy and creamy, with a hint of salt to bring out the sweetness of the coconut. Additionally, a plate of banana fritters paired well with an ice cream infused with Thai tea.

The COVID-19 pandemic may have made it difficult for us to travel to Thailand, but for a few hours at least, my palate – and my stomach – were lucky enough to go on a culinary journey to the Land of Smiles without leaving Doha. ✤

GO: CALL 4410 3310 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.