Kirsty Walker takes a nautical journey at 12 Chairs Caviar Bar, Doha.

Caviar was a delicacy long before raw oysters, truffles or bubbly. Reserved for monarchs and their elites throughout history.

And it’s safe to say caviar is an acquired taste. Over the years I’ve learnt to enjoy these indulgent pearls of fishy joy, spooned onto a dollop of sour cream, balanced on a blini. I’ve always wanted to understand it better.

So, imagine my delight at hearing that a caviar bar had just opened up the road in West Bay Lagoon, at the Mondrian Doha. 12 Chairs Caviar Bar Doha went live in November 2021. In a cosy contrast to the Mondrian’s vast, iconic lobby, it’s discreet and classy.

On arrival, our coats are taken and we’re shown to our lowbacked bar chairs overlooking the kitchen, and within reach of the chef’s blade. Comfortable, plush, and yes, 12 of them. Upbeat lounge music complements a stunning sea-themed wall and floor design – very stylish.

You can order à la carte, but we opt for the Omakase menu, with the chef as our guide. Surprises are good for the soul!

Our nautical journey starts wonderfully as Marcus Riot, Chef de Cuisine, presents us each with ‘bumps’ of Oscietra and Beluga caviar together with a double shot of special Japanese/Cuban mixed beverage. The caviar we were expecting, the shot, not. And what an unexpectedly delicious pairing it is.

 

Those scrumptious caviar bumps are chased by two cones of soft cream cheese, wrapped with ultra-fine filo pastry baked in-house. One contains raw marinated wagyu, the other housesmoked Norwegian salmon. Both are topped with a generous scoop of Kaluga caviar.

“Eat it in two bites,” we are told. I barely swallow the first before taking the second. My guest has already requested another.

Hamza, the Head Mixologist, presents me with a Love Bird. It’s exquisite. A double layer of citrus from the orange enhanced beverage and the tart tang of grapefruit juice, is complemented by sweet lychee puree. Garnished with an orchid leaf and served in a stunning avian-shaped glass, this is a beautiful drink.

My friend orders a Silicon Soul, also citrus-based, with a twist. Yuzu juice, Russian beverage, a touch of grenadine and sweet notes of rose. There’s a fresh red rose petal on top, and I eye the drink whilst she sips happily.

Let’s not forget, this is a caviar bar, and the intriguing variety of enhanced beverages and mocktails created and curated inhouse, are an absolute treat.

Distracted by our drinks, a plate of meticulously garnished lobster tartlets appears in a puff of dry ice, accompanied by a glass of bubbles with ‘vanilla caviar’.

Hints of vanilla from these little spheres zip up and down with the bubbles, while I devour my yuzu-marinated Canadian lobster. Why do I not do this more often?

Next, we get some Mexican Tuna Akami. Presented beautifully in tiny taco shells, the spicy kick, crunchy corn, and salty caviar combine perfectly.

We enjoy a quick rendezvous with a Pineapple Scallop – a tender, chopped Japanese scallop, blow-torched into the shape of a pineapple, and dressed with pineapple ponzu (crazy!) – before the main dish, ‘Beauty and the Beast’.

A deep red rose of pickled beetroot sits alongside a perfectly seared Japanese A5 Wagyu steak, with a generous portion of Kaluga caviar atop. Orange and beetroot puree on the side, drizzled with a generous portion of truffle jus, and served under a glass dome of smoke, the dish is phenomenal. Each bite is an explosion of flavour.

The last thing awaiting us is dessert. A Piña Colada ice cream parfait served with fresh pineapple pieces and coconut meringue, accompanied by an oh-so-good homemade Mocha Cream shot with coffee ‘caviar’. I can safely say we have arrived at our destination.

The service and presentation were cool, calm and collected. For relative amateurs like us, Chef de Cuisine Marcus, and his Chef de Partie Stephan, guided us through each plate, not only upon serving, but also while slicing, placing, and constructing each dish precisely before presentation at the bar. It was a pleasure to watch.

A visit to 12 Chairs Caviar Bar is a wonderfully creative, and highly personal experience. Though you might think that caviar takes centre stage here. I beg to differ. The food is out of this world, and the designer drinks crafted to perfection. But the diner is the star of the night. ✤

GO: CALL 4045 5999 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.