A TASTE OF LA DOLCE VITA

Asad Ullah takes an Italian detour at Cucina for flavoursome food, without the long journey.


Gone are the days where you had to hop on an aeroplane to enjoy wondrous Italian cuisine, with eateries in Doha serving every conceivable variety of pasta, risotto and much more.

Of course, in the list of restaurants serving authentic Italian food in the city, Cucina is among the best. A warm, cosy place, with quaint rustic-style décor, red bricked and smelling of freshly-baked bread, it is transforming Qatar’s food landscape from its out-of-the way spot right in the centre of the city at the Marriott Marquis City Centre Doha Hotel.

It is led by Chef Claudio Trovata. Actively involved in each order that leaves the kitchen, the chef pays tribute to Italian delicacies in the most delicate way, producing only flavoursome taste and aroma.

On the menu? Melting burrata, artful plates of antipasti (caponata, caprese, insalata Napoletana, focaccia, bresaola…), cleverly prepared calamari, ravioli burro e salvia (spinach taking over the taste buds so subtly as the cream cheese dominates the bite) and a plethora of fresh pasta dishes. It also wouldn’t be erroneous to say that the restaurant seduces guests with its menu of fine Italian selected beverages.

As I enter the venue, I spot cicchetti (quick bites) sumptuously displayed on the counter in front of the typical Italian pizza oven, and I just know instinctively that it’s going to be a wholesome noon. Amidst the warm, dim lighting I can feel the restaurant beat brimming with customers, even on a weekday, and music complementing the pan crackling in the open kitchen.

I head towards the private dining area that is minimalistic in décor but speaks volumes of Italian heritage. The frames hanging on the wall, the wooden dining table with cloves of garlic, a huge cactus in the corner of the room and the presence of Chef Claudio that fills the air; it feels like I’m home, just not mine but rather Chef Claudio’s. Everything seems personal. There I am, with a menu of rustic Italian dishes in my hand and bewildered as to what to try, because everything on the carte looks delicious.

It’s sparkling water with ice and lemon for me to start: something refreshing to balance the outside heat. I ask the chef to surprise me with the best he has to offer. And, oh my, that’s an opportunity you do not want to miss!

A charred pile of hop-fried aubergine and other vegetables arrives accompanied by fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, sweet basil, Italian bread and air-dried thin, salted slices of beef (bresaola) in olive oil with a vampire-obliterating dose of subtle spices and a vibrant thwack of chilli. The starters are truly great. So great that even the well crusted calamari with zucchini and tartar sauce, that is my staple, takes a back seat. The calamari is good but I’m more interested in the sun dried tomatoes and beef on the other plate.

I could happily continue building lunch like this, from the amazing starters. However, the main course is practically why I am here. Ravioli Burro e Salvia is al dente and the sauce is minimal to let the flavours of the spinach and freshly homemade pasta shine through. Paper-thin, sublimely al dente sheets draped prettily in a sticky, gritty mess of tomato sauce paired with cream cheese. At the heart of the menu, Chef Claudio’s pasta goes back to basics. I can taste the sploshing warm butter and I need another quick bite before I move on to the Risotto ai Porcini with mushroom that has just been served.

Risotto is an Italian staple; you cannot visit an Italian restaurant and not order this. It would be an absolute ignominy! To my surprise risotto is prepared here at Cucina with Acquerello rice. One of the only restaurants in Doha exclusively serving it, Acquerello (Italian for watercolour) is an aged Italian Carnaroli rice. Only grains that pass the 20 processing and selection steps become Acquerello. This is an obligatory risotto, but the mushrooms are also irresistible. In the perfect combination it’s like a friend – a savoury, butter- and cheese-loaded friend.

Before I’m done with the savoury cut, I’m just leaning over to the other end of the table to grab a quick slice of Capricciosa pizza, because anchovies, olives and wholesome mushroom with lots and lots of cheese is just too tempting to not try. The base of the pizza is medium crust but well-done, just the way I like it. And, Cucina’s ingredients flow with the season and are all ethically sourced – further making this restaurant so special. Now the sugary delights. Cassata Siciliana and Torta Caprese are a ‘must try’ to end your meal. Cassata brings the traditional ricotta recipe infused with chocolate, raisins and dry fruits to give it a local taste. While Torta Caprese is more like a molten lava cake in a simple foodie version but healthier and vegan. Torta Caprese is prepared with almond flour and chocolate and served with vanilla ice cream. What stands out in this dessert is the absolutely perfect balance of sugar. It’s not very sweet, yet sweet enough to make your day! It’s divine. ✤

GO: CALL 4419 6155 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION.