A Legendary Dining Experience

Liz O’Reilly encountered food as impressive as the chef who inspires it on a visit to Morimoto Doha.

The Japanese eatery at Mondrian Doha is the first Middle East outpost from the legendary Master Chef Masaharu Morimoto – who pays regular visits to the venue. And, while Morimoto restaurants the world over have similar elements, the Qatar version has some very specifically Arabic hints.

After entering through a golden-hued, mirrored corridor, which makes you feel a bit like as movie star, you’ll find liberal use of traditional elements in the décor, giving the restaurant a distinct sense of place. My eyes were immediately drawn to a glittering ceiling chandelier, made entirely from Arabic and Japanese lanterns highlighting the unity of the two regions, that gave a gorgeous copper tinted glow, while dark toned pillars sported bronze rosettes reminiscent of classical document seals.

A sculpted miniature tree in purple bearing yellow/golden fruits plays into the whimsical world of Mondrian outside the restaurant’s doors and feels right at home in the fantastical setting.

On entry, the first sight is of a buzzing open kitchen, fronted by a sushi counter, where the numerous chefs required to produce the exceptionally high-quality menu is evident from the busy but measured activity.

There are special nights throughout the week, such as Sushi & Steak Sundays and Rolls & Ramen Tuesdays, but we chose to go for a tasting selection from the à la carte menu, suggested by Restaurant General Manager Paulo Bastos, which proved to be an excellent decision.

We started with the salmon poke tacos – crunchy mini taco shells bursting with flavour from the perfectly seasoned fish which was offset beautifully by the cool creaminess of avocado. The elements came together perfectly providing a wonderful combination of textures to excite the taste buds.

Next up was Wagyu Carpaccio. Melting, buttery, well-marbled meat topped with citrussy yuzu zest that literally danced across the palate with its echoes of cilantro, daikon and chives. The exquisitely thinly sliced meat alone was exceptional but the assorted seasonings really drew out the earthy flavour without being overpowering. And the presentation, with floral leaves and bright sliced kumquats against the deep liquid gloss of the marinade, made this one of the standout dishes of the evening.

A stunningly staged raw selection followed. Sitting on a bed of ice dotted with fresh blossoms, the salmon, tuna and seabass sashimi gleamed with bright promise, each mouthful piquant and deeply satisfying, the chunky texture of the fish bringing hints of the sea to the plate.

There was a selection of sushi rolls, each more delectable than the last. The delicate morsels packed with flavour from the likes of fatty tuna and salty yellowtail, their different toppings, including blackened sesame seeds, daikon or popping, salty caviar, giving each mouthful an interesting variation of textures.

The standout for me though was the aburi salmon with truffle. Oh, be still my beating heart as I remember the superbly satisfying earthy richness of the fungi combined with the salty tartness of the lightly flame-seared oily fish. I think I could have left the table happy at this point.

The sushi was accompanied by an equally impressive lobster tempura with yuzu koshu dip. It was presented in satisfyingly large morsels coated in crispy batter with the lobster shell for decoration.

The meat, lightly spicy and sweet, the flavours dancing across the tongue, was creamy in texture and utterly delicious.

The last of our savoury selections was thinly sliced A5 Waygu direct from Japan cooked on a hot stone at our table. A triumph of showmanship that also allows the diner to decide the temperature of the meat, the flesh was so tender it hardly required chewing. The juices flowing abundantly, a testament to the generous marbling and quality of the meat, mingled perfectly with a herby undertone and sides of chimichurri and spicy sesame to render this dish another of the night’s standouts – one for which I will definitely return.

By this point, I honestly didn’t think I could manage anything else but the sight of dessert changed my mind. The white chocolate semifreddo with meringue and strawberries had my taste buds, once again, wide awake. Cracking the sugary meringue with my spoon, I paused in anticipation to take in the perfect orbs of semifreddo – a concoction of eggs, sugar and heavy cream – perched atop the white chocolate base. Determined to scoop all the elements into the perfect spoonful, we dived in and our table descended into silence – a testament to the exquisite, sweetly satisfying mix.

This sweet note, which I accompanied with a cup of Japanese tea, was the perfect way to end our feast and we lingered over every last morsel as, around us, gentle conversation flowed from the neighbouring tables adding to the atmosphere provided by funky background vibes.

Morimoto the world over has a well-deserved reputation for excellence and the Qatar outpost certainly upholds this. From the superiority of the service to the quality of the ingredients and the gorgeous surroundings, you really know you are experiencing something quite exceptional. I can’t wait to go back. ✤

GO: CALL 4045 5555 FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A BOOKING.